cpayne5
05-10-2006, 08:23 AM
Here are my recommendations -
Sedans: Accord, Camry, Subaru Legacy (AWD)
Small SUVs: RAV4 (especially 2006+), CR-V, Highlander
Midsize SUVs: 4Runner, Trailblazer
With the SUV choices, I'm assuming that they all have/are AWD/4WD and with the sedans, only the Suby is AWD.
If you plan on keeping your vehicle for a long time, buy it new. I know you take a hit on depreciation, but by buying it new you know the exact history of it. You know how it has been treated. If you're going to sell the car in 3-5 years, go with a slightly used vehicle.
In terms of quality, Japanese autos are tops. Especially ones made in Japan. You can tell if it's made in japan by seeing if the VIN starts with a J. You wouldn't think that there would be a difference, but there is. American cars are of better quality than the Europeans. American cars have taken a bum rap recently, and frankly it's not at all warranted at this point. I have never owned a korean car (hyundai/ kia), but would go out on a limb and say that they are right now what Honda/Toyota was back in the 60s/ 70s in terms of industry emergence.
The general driveline of a vehicle with either AWD or 4WD: engine->transmission->transfer case-> 2 outputs; 1 to front axle & 1 to rear
AWD vs 4WD
There really isn't a whole lot of difference here with the terms. Where the difference lies is in the implementation of the systems. Traditionally, a 4WD vehicle gives you a multimode transfer case with a lever(s), or more recently buttons or knobs, which allow you to make the switch from 2wheel drive to 4wheel drive. An all wheel drive system does not give you the ability to manually switch your vehicle to 2wd. Some all wheel drive systems do allow the driver to switch into a low range, but I doubt you really need to be concerned with that given how you're going to use the vehicle. At this point, an AWD vehicle and a vehicle with a multimode transfer case in 4wd are in basically the same state.
AWD vs 4WD w/ 4WD mode selected
Alright, here's where the fun begins. :D In order to split power you need an input, a "gear box", and 2 outputs. This is general idea is universal, but what happens inside of the "gear box" varies greatly. Gearbox can be used to mean a transfer case or an axle/differential combo. I'll use the generic term gearbox as they both have similar behaviors in the auto industry. A gearbox can allow three things to occur; allow outputs to spin at different speeds (open), lock the outputs together so that they spin at the same speeds (locked), and lock the outputs together so that they spin at the same speeds to a friction point (limited slip). Locked "gearboxes" give the best traction, but the least streetability (think about all four tires of a vehicle travelling the same speeds around a tight curve and the difference in distances travelled by the tires). Now, going back to AWD vs 4WD, in both scenarios, the transfer cases of a vehicle with either system will more than likely guarantee a certain ratio of power to the front and rear wheels. With a locked transfer case, the ratio will be 50/50 (unless you break something :D). After the transfer case 'splits' the input, it outputs it to the axles. An axle then takes the input and splits it again in its differential, sending power to the wheels. The differential is another gearbox that can again be open, locked, or have a limited slip. So at this point, we have a transfer case and 2 differentials that can all be open. A very suprising thing can happen to an AWD vehicle with all three being open. Say three wheels have traction on pavement but the third tire is on ice with absolutely no traction. From the engine, power will go to the transfer case, pick the easiest route (to the axle with the tire on ice), then at the axle the power will pick the next easiest route (to the tire on ice), thus giving 100% of your cars power to the one and only tire with absolutely no traction. Industry realized this and designed systems to limit this scenario from happening. The first is the power ratio split guarantee in the transfer case that I mentioned earlier. This will guarantee that each axle gets a portion of the power and at least TWO wheels will spin at this point. But the two wheels can be on separate axles and each wheel still may not have traction (say the two driver side wheels are on ice and the passenger side wheels are on pavement). So, now we have vehicles with active traction control systems. These systems basically use an open differential against itself in certain situation. If you go back to the 3 open diff situation, an active TC system will "see" that the tire on ice is slipping, apply the brake (which gives this power route more resistance) and force the differential to route the power to the opposite wheel on the axle. At this point, the car will have traction and move forward. This system will also work if both tires on an axle have no traction. The system will apply the brakes to the wheels on an axle where both wheels are spinning and the power will then be routed to the opposite axle at the transfer case.
I have three vehicles with varying system that can send power to any of the 4 wheels. I have a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon which allows you to manually lock all three 'gearboxes'. This is the ultimate offroader. I have a Toyota 4Runner which allows you to lock the transfer case and also has an active traction control system that partially makes up for a lack of lockers in the axles. I also have an older truck that has a locked transfer case, locked rear axle, and an open front axle. The most streetable is the 4Runner, but it compensates for itself very well offroad. The least streetable is the truck because its rear axle is locked 100% of the time.
If I were to give you a suggestion right now, I'd have to say either a new Camry or Accord. You can't beat the quality/dependability and with a good set of winter tires, either will give you ample traction.
Sedans: Accord, Camry, Subaru Legacy (AWD)
Small SUVs: RAV4 (especially 2006+), CR-V, Highlander
Midsize SUVs: 4Runner, Trailblazer
With the SUV choices, I'm assuming that they all have/are AWD/4WD and with the sedans, only the Suby is AWD.
If you plan on keeping your vehicle for a long time, buy it new. I know you take a hit on depreciation, but by buying it new you know the exact history of it. You know how it has been treated. If you're going to sell the car in 3-5 years, go with a slightly used vehicle.
In terms of quality, Japanese autos are tops. Especially ones made in Japan. You can tell if it's made in japan by seeing if the VIN starts with a J. You wouldn't think that there would be a difference, but there is. American cars are of better quality than the Europeans. American cars have taken a bum rap recently, and frankly it's not at all warranted at this point. I have never owned a korean car (hyundai/ kia), but would go out on a limb and say that they are right now what Honda/Toyota was back in the 60s/ 70s in terms of industry emergence.
The general driveline of a vehicle with either AWD or 4WD: engine->transmission->transfer case-> 2 outputs; 1 to front axle & 1 to rear
AWD vs 4WD
There really isn't a whole lot of difference here with the terms. Where the difference lies is in the implementation of the systems. Traditionally, a 4WD vehicle gives you a multimode transfer case with a lever(s), or more recently buttons or knobs, which allow you to make the switch from 2wheel drive to 4wheel drive. An all wheel drive system does not give you the ability to manually switch your vehicle to 2wd. Some all wheel drive systems do allow the driver to switch into a low range, but I doubt you really need to be concerned with that given how you're going to use the vehicle. At this point, an AWD vehicle and a vehicle with a multimode transfer case in 4wd are in basically the same state.
AWD vs 4WD w/ 4WD mode selected
Alright, here's where the fun begins. :D In order to split power you need an input, a "gear box", and 2 outputs. This is general idea is universal, but what happens inside of the "gear box" varies greatly. Gearbox can be used to mean a transfer case or an axle/differential combo. I'll use the generic term gearbox as they both have similar behaviors in the auto industry. A gearbox can allow three things to occur; allow outputs to spin at different speeds (open), lock the outputs together so that they spin at the same speeds (locked), and lock the outputs together so that they spin at the same speeds to a friction point (limited slip). Locked "gearboxes" give the best traction, but the least streetability (think about all four tires of a vehicle travelling the same speeds around a tight curve and the difference in distances travelled by the tires). Now, going back to AWD vs 4WD, in both scenarios, the transfer cases of a vehicle with either system will more than likely guarantee a certain ratio of power to the front and rear wheels. With a locked transfer case, the ratio will be 50/50 (unless you break something :D). After the transfer case 'splits' the input, it outputs it to the axles. An axle then takes the input and splits it again in its differential, sending power to the wheels. The differential is another gearbox that can again be open, locked, or have a limited slip. So at this point, we have a transfer case and 2 differentials that can all be open. A very suprising thing can happen to an AWD vehicle with all three being open. Say three wheels have traction on pavement but the third tire is on ice with absolutely no traction. From the engine, power will go to the transfer case, pick the easiest route (to the axle with the tire on ice), then at the axle the power will pick the next easiest route (to the tire on ice), thus giving 100% of your cars power to the one and only tire with absolutely no traction. Industry realized this and designed systems to limit this scenario from happening. The first is the power ratio split guarantee in the transfer case that I mentioned earlier. This will guarantee that each axle gets a portion of the power and at least TWO wheels will spin at this point. But the two wheels can be on separate axles and each wheel still may not have traction (say the two driver side wheels are on ice and the passenger side wheels are on pavement). So, now we have vehicles with active traction control systems. These systems basically use an open differential against itself in certain situation. If you go back to the 3 open diff situation, an active TC system will "see" that the tire on ice is slipping, apply the brake (which gives this power route more resistance) and force the differential to route the power to the opposite wheel on the axle. At this point, the car will have traction and move forward. This system will also work if both tires on an axle have no traction. The system will apply the brakes to the wheels on an axle where both wheels are spinning and the power will then be routed to the opposite axle at the transfer case.
I have three vehicles with varying system that can send power to any of the 4 wheels. I have a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon which allows you to manually lock all three 'gearboxes'. This is the ultimate offroader. I have a Toyota 4Runner which allows you to lock the transfer case and also has an active traction control system that partially makes up for a lack of lockers in the axles. I also have an older truck that has a locked transfer case, locked rear axle, and an open front axle. The most streetable is the 4Runner, but it compensates for itself very well offroad. The least streetable is the truck because its rear axle is locked 100% of the time.
If I were to give you a suggestion right now, I'd have to say either a new Camry or Accord. You can't beat the quality/dependability and with a good set of winter tires, either will give you ample traction.